| New World White Wines - What I Like |
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| By Alan Pembshaw | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Wednesday, 20 June 2007 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
In order to avoid sounding like a wine snob, I will begin by claiming that I am not a wine connoisseur, but I am a dedicated amateur and do know what I like. I’ve been drinking wine for almost 40 years, mainly those of Australia and New Zealand. Since moving to Finland, I’ve tried many more wines of the so-called New World, those countries of the southern hemisphere producing wines – Argentina, Chile and South Africa and, of course, Australia and New Zealand. I may be rather parochial, but I prefer wines which are more fruit-driven and emphasise the varietal characters of wines. Even more so, I like to be able to understand a wine label, rather than the confusion of the ubiquitous French labels, but that’s another story - hence my choice of wines from the New World. With summer in full swing here in Finland, thoughts turn to alfresco dining, barbeques, sitting by a lake or river, holidays and white wine. So this article will be about which of the New World white wines I like most. I’ve tried to look at wines of reasonable price, that is up to about 15 euros, with a couple of choices which I consider absolute diamonds amongst those available through Alko. I’ve also listed them by grape varieties, then countries within each variety. My recommendations start with my favourite in each variety and so on down the list. Please note that I haven’t tried all of the wines available through Alko, so would welcome feedback on what readers think are wines worth drinking. I am looking forward to writing a similar article on New World red wines as we head into autumn/winter. Riesling One of my favourite varieties, predominantly from Australia, where winemakers have turned this wine from the German-style which is sweeter and with a strong taste of apple into a style of wine which is more subtle, fresh, citrus and slightly acidic in taste and has a very clean, dry finish. For summer drinking, these are best drunk in the first year or two after vintage when they are at their freshest. These are wines ideal to drink with mild cheeses before a meal, salads, most fish and seafood. There isn’t much choice in this category in Alko with a few from Australia and New Zealand. My recommendations are:
Sauvignon Blanc This is a wine style which has brought New World white wines to the attention of European and American wine drinkers. These are made in all New World countries, with the best coming from New Zealand. These are wines best drunk, like riesling, in the first two years after vintage when at their freshest. Unlike riesling, these wines have a very distinctive nose of freshly mown grass. They do taste sweet with flavours of berries or passionfruit, but usually have a clean, dry finish. Overall they tend to be very refreshing wines. Sometimes this variety is blended with other varieties such as semillon or chardonnay to add more fullness to its taste. These wines are ideal for summer with or without food. Typical of most white wines, these are best drunk with milder cheeses, fish and seafood.
Chardonnay Many people had their first experience of wines from the New World with the chardonnays from Australia in the 1980s. Those were wines of great character, heavily-wooded (some say that you could taste the splinters) with exposure to oak and tasting of tropical fruit, but still dry and crisp. That style has been tempered over the last ten years or so with better balance between fruit and oak. A few have not been exposed to wood at all, the so-called unwooded chardonnays. If wooded, there is usually a hint of toast and vanilla on the nose. The unwooded wines emphasise the fruit character of the grape with luscious tastes of melons and pineapple. Try the Unwooded Chardonnay from Montana in comparison with the Wolf Blass Yellow Label. I must admit I haven’t tried many of the chardonnays from Chile (and Alko has a wide range), so I’d be interested in readers’ views on these.
Botrytis Semillon My last wine is another of those gems which is worth trying for that special occasion. This is a made when the weather is favourable enough to leave the grapes on the vine for about two months after normal maturity. The grapes may then be affected by ‘noble rot’ or botrytis, which concentrates the sugar and acid to produce a sauterne-like dessert wine
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