Wednesday, 07 January 2009

Oulu´s Four Centuries Print E-mail
By Markus H. Korhonen   
Monday, 24 October 2005

ImageThe city known for its high technology also has an impressive past. In principle, there is nothing new under the sun - internationalism and expertise in technological economics have existed in Oulu before.


The city of Oulu turned a full 400 years in April 2005. When Charles IX founded Oulu at the mouth of a rapidly flowing river - adjacent to a fortress which had been started earlier - military strategy was at issue, and the project was linked with the superpower politics of that time. The forests and people of the north had already been subject to Stockholm’s sphere of influence and the national entities of Russia. Naturally, furs and rivers rich in salmon were economically attractive. They were likewise interested in the inhabitants, the taxation of whom enticed both western and eastern rulers. In fact, the fortress and the town were intended to be the bridgehead of the Swedish Empire.

Finland’s centuries-long fateful position between two worlds - east and west - has at times been a source of great benefit as well as great sorrow for the Finnish people. Nobody knows exactly when Finland, or the region that was considered to be Finland, drifted into administrative contact with Sweden’s medieval kingdom. In fact, it is generally safe to say that around the 1100s and thereafter the Finnish people gradually became model subjects of the ”Kingdom of Three Crowns”. They happened to speak Finnish, but in their own minds they were good Swedes. This is no longer seen in the present mentality based on the nation-state tradition. In the 1600s the Swedish kingdom was an awe-inspiring and, unfortunately, very war-like superpower whose terrifying mounted troops, called ”hakkapeliitta”, were mainly composed of Finnish soldiers.

The paths of Sweden and Finland diverged during the unrest at the time of the Napoleonic wars, and this separation was linked to new superpower issues.  As a result of the war Finland was incorporated into Russia in 1809.  In the world of that time, which was based on autocracy, Finland had exceptionally good luck. Finland became the autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland. It preserved the enlightened Western administrative and justice system of the period of Swedish rule. The czars granted Finland several privileges that other ”Russian” peoples did not have.  The period of Russian rule went well up to the year 1899, when pan-Slavic feelings of nationalism in Russia reared its head. The exemptions of the Grand Duchy were irritating, and the weak-willed Nicholas II ate his word and the ruler’s assurance, which his predecessors had confirmed to Finland without exception. Finland proclaimed her independence in 1917, although during the following spring she had to fight a bitter war of independence, which immediately turned into a civil war. As the country became independent, Oulu had already become somewhat provincial, as the exceptional prosperity and strong internationalism of the 1800s had waned.

But let us look a little further back in time: The town of Oulu, then, has lived half of its life in ”Swedish Finland”. In its first century the town was small when viewed from today’s perspective, although, of course, it was not at all insignificant by the standards of the 1600s. As early as in the latter half of the century, Oulu’s school was a high-level institution which graduated students directly to a university. The language of instruction was Latin, and the town was commendably international in other ways, as well. Old ledgers reveal that wine from the Rhine and beer from Wismar were also consumed here, where the ethnic backgrounds of the inhabitants also varied. The town’s trade relations mostly passed through Stockholm, the capital town (of Sweden).

The population of Oulu at the time it was established had been about 400.  At the end of the century it approached 1000, but the famine of the 1690s heavily taxed the population throughout Finland. During the 1600s the salmon became established as the symbol of Oulu and soon received a more ceremonious and heraldic form on a real coat of arms. On it the king of fish from the Oulujoki River, the ancient main artery which has since been fettered by power plants, swam under a fortress with four towers. The salmon, fur and butter trades continued persistently while wars tore at the kingdom from time to time. The hardships of the 1710s, known as the Great Wrath, brought the bloodthirsty troops of Czar Peter I (so-called ”The Great” by his admirers) into the town. Oulu’s fortress was burned and approximately 60 residents of the town were dragged to Russia into slavery. Countless lives were lost all over Finland and dozens of thousands of Finns were butchered in the systematic massacres carried out by Russians invaders.  Other trials experienced by the town included large fires that periodically destroyed the entire wooden town, as happened in 1822.

The next century - the 1700s - brought with it small sawmills at the mouth of the river and a continually growing interest in the vegetal tar trade. One factor was that in the early decades of the 1700s the Russian Empire had taken possession of Karelia, which had been the central tar production region of Sweden (i.e. Swedish Finland). Tar can be considered the ”high-tech” product of its time. The world’s superpowers, investing in their seafaring and fleets, were always in need of tar. In 1765 Oulu obtained its own international trade rights during the Diet of 1765 in Stockholm. In truth, bribes were needed for this, but the politics of that time called for resourcefulness...

At the beginning of the 1800s Oulu was already convincingly distinguished in the maritime industry. When the sympathetic Czar of Russia, Alexander I, visited Finland - and Oulu -  in 1819, the town already had 4000 inhabitants and for a long time  was the second largest town in Finland. Tar was no longer produced in the coastal areas, from where pine forests had already diminished; instead it was produced on the banks of the Oulujoki River - further and further away.  Eventually tar-kilns produced ”black gold” in the eastern regions of the province, in the Kainuu region. The Oulujoki River offered an excellent and functional ”logistic channel”.  Tar burning and river transport, which had become the key home industry of the Kainuu peasantry, created an interesting antity all the way up to the 1900s. As early as the 1780s the well-to-do merchants and Trade Society of Oulu had concentrated the tar trade into their own terminal, the Tar Wharf on the north shore of Toppilansalmi-passage, which served as a deep-water port. Oulu’s ships got larger and journeys became longer. In 1860s the merchant fleet registered in Oulu was the largest in the country and five years later the amount of tar exported from the town rose to record levels: more than 83 500 barrels were exported.  The largest buyers included England; its empire’s oak ships were able to float without rotting even in distant waters due to this sticky liquid. Then, unfortunately, came metal ships and cheaper chemical methods along with many other innovations.

The first steam-powered sawmills began operating in the Oulu region as early as the 1850s, and the sale of ships abroad, too, was very profitable. Foreign products were imported before the ice froze for the winter enjoyment of Oulu residents. The wealthiest people were accustomed to eating foie de gras made by the masters of Strasbourg, and Spanish olives were also known. Businesses in Oulu supplied their customers with the fashions of Paris with a delay of a few months, Sailors spoke English, French, Dutch, Spanish, Italian and even Portuguese, as needed.

Tourism also began to appear. Sport fishermen, who arrived at the rapids of the Oulujoki River, included English peers, of whom we at least remember the 10th Earl of Scarborough in 1885, and John Godfrey Rogers, the surgeon general of the British troops, who from one year to the next arrived at Niskakoski, in Vaala, from Cairo, Egypt.  Two other persons who should be mentioned are Mrs A. Twedie, who produced an extensive, lively description of her trip to Finland: ”Through Finland in carts” (1895) and a world-famous journalist of his time Harry de Windt who wrote extremely popular travel books. After his trip de Windt published a large book: ”Finland as it is” (1901, 2nd ed. 1910) in which he tells about Oulu in more than 20 pages.

The completion of the railroad on 1886 was important to Oulu, which had 10 000 residents. For seafaring and the tar culture, which were based on sailing ships, it meant fading away. The railroad was cheaper and faster. It also functioned in the winter, unlike seafaring, which was based on sailing ships. Icebreakers were not developed until later, and Finland is also known worldwide for them. The first half of the 1900s was a somewhat dormant period, but at least on certain levels it was a period of perseverance. The wood processing industry strengthened and it became the most important exporting industry for several decades.

During the period of World War II, Finland fought two wars against the dictatorship of Stalin, i.e. the Soviet Union; the so-called Winter War in 1939-40 and the so-called Continuation War in 1941-44. The destructive strikes directed at civilian targets by Soviet bombers devastated the town centre, especially in the late winter of 1944. With the onset of peace began the period in Finnish history known as the reconstruction period, during which time Oulu and its townscape continued to change. The country changed from an agrarian state to an industrial country in less than 30 years.

The period following World War II brought with it a university to Oulu. It has since grown into a noteworthy institution, and in 2005 it has about 15 000 students. And the university is by no means the only notable institution of learning. Oulu’s status as a centre of learning, which began in the 1600s, remains and is getting stronger. For a long time the population grew in a coincidental manner in step with the decades; it was about 50 000 in the 1950s, 60 000 in the 1960s and 70 000 in the 1970s.  Oulu quickly became ”the capital city of half of Finland”, and the population growth at the end of the 1990s is actually difficult to follow analytically.  Through ingenious investments and concentrations in special fields, the electronics industry, which was the most significant of the new industries, made Oulu into its own ”Mecca”.  At the time this is being written the population has risen to ca 127 000, which is why it is understandable that the majority of the current Oulu residents do not have knowledge of the significant phases of their home town.

Oulu has been first in many things: Scandinavia’s first hot air balloon, sent by scientist Johan Julin (1752-1820), flew here as early as 1784. The country’s first composer of art music, Eric Tulindberg (1761-1814), worked here in the 1790s, and our country’s first strong figure in women’s education, author Sara Wacklin (1790-1846), left from here and boldly obtained a degree in pedagogics from the University of Paris in 1836. The first professional actress in the Country’s history - Maria Silfvan (1803-1865) - also worked in this town, and many national cultural figures like Zakris Topelius (1818-1898) and even the legendary Marshall of Finland, Baron Mannerheim (1867-1951) have their roots in Oulu. This is also the place where many child prodigies of new technology have their roots. Natural science and high-quality pharmacology have been practised here for centuries - and many languages have been spoken. Despite its small size and ”outwardly chaotic appearance” this city, which displays certain features in a more emphasised manner, is nevertheless more captivating and dynamic than could be imagined by someone visiting from afar.



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